28 Sep Glossary of footwear concepts (13)
Thirteenth entry corresponding to the post series in which we are compiling different terms in a glossary of footwear concepts (13). Within our field, there are numerous terms that refer to important elements in the manufacture and design of shoes.
We continue with other concepts from the world of footwear arranged in alphabetical order (Translator’s note: the alphabetical order is lost in the translation).
Lasting
Technique that joins the upper to the lasting insole by centering the roughened uppers to the last. It can be by gluing, sewing, nailing or a combination of several. The sole is laid afterwords.
Heel notch
It is located at the top back of the shoe hole, above the heel. Also known as cleft.
Reference samples
Set of samples used to establish similarities and differences between others of the same species or category.
Multi-mould
With various molds. Referred to the injection and vulcanizing machines.
Eyelet
The hole through which the laces pass and the shoes are tied.
Vamp
It is the part of the shoe that you find above the toes; on the foot, this part is called the instep. It is often made of breathable mesh fabric, or has perforations for better breathability.
Insole
Element used to support the basted cut in the lasting. Also known as middle sole.
Rib or lateral
The rib is the main piece on the side of the shoe.
Pattern Cutter or shoe-designer
It is the technician who transforms the 2D drawing into a 3D pattern that adapts to a specific last. The designer draws the shoe, the pattern maker transforms this design into a real shoe.
Penetrators
These are products that modify the superficial tension of the finishing preparations, and, consequently, they have greater or lesser absorption by the leather.
Perimeter
It is the distance around an object. When measuring a last, you need to know the perimeter of the joint or ball (instep toes), the perimeter of the instep or waist (low instep), and the perimeter of the heel (high instep).